Monday, July 14, 2008

Hair of the cat, ni ni ni, and ecce ecce ecce


We chased the sun all day and all night it seems, moving West towards Japan and ultimately Vietnam. I finished a book, read about the US setting up a war in Iran, and watched 2.5 movies. I am grateful that it will be night when I arrive in Hanoi. I will fall into bed and sleep and sleep.

I was very happy with my Air Canada flight from Toronto to Tokyo Narita Eco Airport (that is what was emblazoned on the airport lawn when we landed). I think it was my first time being a minority on a flight. I was a Caucasian face in a sea of Japanese and I loved it though I might not love it so much in four weeks.

I have a photo of me with a new Japanese friend but I can't upload anything to the computer at which I currently sit; it's encased in a metal box. The photo is *fantastic*: I took it at the end of a 15 hour journey and there is a sharp contrast between me (of Eastern European descent) and my new friend (a delicate Japanese woman who is 60 but looks at least ten years younger). I might as well be the Green Giant. She and her husband were total sweeties. They wanted to know what I was "studying" because I was plowing through a great book about Vietnam ("Vietnam, Now" by David Lamb; memorable lines include "kill rat, grow cat"). Their English was almost as good as my Japanese, which is to say, non-existent so in the end they got a flight attendant to act as their translator (these two really knew how to work it, let me tell you). When they discovered that I am a teacher they were hugely impressed and made me feel very important. It was incredibly flattering and I'm certain that I turned bright red from embarrassment and surprise.

My friend and I tried communicating via the universal languages of stick figures and numbers but I think I left her with the impression that I am 37 and expecting twins. I was able to correct the impression that I'm 37 but I'm pretty sure she still believes I'm pregnant with twins. At my end, I discovered that she and her husband had been in Niagara Falls for a week-long 'low-key' trip and that they have two sons. I will post the picture of us when I can.

Landing in Japan was one of the coolest moments of my life. There were little hills poking out all over the place and bouquets of trees gathered on top. I can't believe I'm on this amazing island. The view from the plane was nothing like what I expected it to be. I expected to see large cities and, nearing Tokyo, towers and lights. Instead, I saw fields, trees, and bodies of water. From very high up it looked like Canada in miniature, except better-organized. They haven't stripped their greenbelts into thongs. The houses in towns seem to be clustered quite close together and there are substantive fields around them. I want to know what they grow there.

The great organization has continued at the airport. I had to change terminals but the gate at terminal one matched the gate at terminal two - my new friend told me two is 'ni' in Japanese which always makes me think 'ni ni ni' - resulting in: NO CONFUSION!! Again, BRILLIANT! On top of this, they had a greeter waiting for me specifically at the Air Canada gate. It pays to be the white kid going to Hanoi! Unfortuanately, in my sleep-deprived fog I accidentally ditched my greeter and made my way to Terminal Ni on my own. I hope I didn't cause her any problems or worries.

So now I am off to eat a bean paste cake thing that looks delicious and to pick at a lone cat hair stuck in my glasses. It seems that Charlie has found a way of crossing the Pacific with me. Fortunately Vietnam now has this 'kill rat, grow cat' policy. Lucky cat.

xo
toupe

ps: at this moment, I wish I could take a little pill and become a polyglot

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